Zeppole di San Giuseppe: A Sweet Tale of History, Culture, and Identity

In the heart of March, as the air fills with the irresistible scent of frying and pastry cream, southern Italian bakeries prepare to celebrate one of the most heartfelt popular traditions: the Feast of Saint Joseph, on March 19. On this day dedicated to the putative father of Jesus—a symbol of humility and hard work—people honor not only the paternal figure but also a masterpiece of traditional pastry: Zeppole di San Giuseppe. 

Historical and Anthropological Origins

The origins of zeppole are lost in the mists of time, intertwined with pagan rituals, folk religiosity, and social transformation. Some scholars trace their roots back to the ancient Roman Liberalia festivals, celebrated on March 17 in honor of Bacchus and Silenus, where various types of fried dough were offered to the gods or consumed communally.

With the spread of Christianity, many of these rituals were "redirected" toward Christian figures and calendar dates: March 19 became Saint Joseph’s day. Particularly in southern Italy, Saint Joseph took on great significance: patron saint of the poor, of carpenters, and of fathers, he became a symbol of protection and support during times of hardship. In many southern communities, March 19 is still marked by elaborate food altars and shared meals, reflecting the ancient values of hospitality and solidarity.

But when did zeppole, as we know them today, actually come into being?

A Pastry's Journey: From Street Food to Neapolitan Art

The modern zeppola—fried or baked, topped with custard and a candied cherry—is a creation of Neapolitan pastry-making excellence. The first written record dates back to 1837, thanks to Neapolitan chef Ippolito Cavalcanti, Duke of Buonvicino, in his recipe book Cucina teorico-pratica, written partly in the Neapolitan dialect.

Cavalcanti described a recipe already quite similar to today’s version, but the modern zeppola was likely perfected between the late 19th and early 20th centuries in Neapolitan pastry shops. According to tradition, it was a street fryer in Naples—cooking over large open flames—who popularized them. It was more than food: it was public ritual, theatrical performance, and sweetness combined—a perfect metaphor for Neapolitan culture.

A Culinary Symbol

Anthropologically, zeppole di San Giuseppe are more than just dessert. They are a ritual food loaded with symbolism: the frying (technically a "sacred fire" of transformation), the custard (evoking maternal nourishment), the sour cherry (a balance between sweetness and acidity), and the spiral shape, suggesting cycles, continuity, and protection.

Zeppole are a clear example of how food in Mediterranean culture serves as a language of identity, a communal rite, and a symbol of shared memory. Preparing zeppole is, in many families, a transmission of feminine knowledge—a domestic liturgy that reaffirms intergenerational bonds. 

Traditional Zeppole di San Giuseppe Recipe

Ingredients (for about 10 zeppole):

For the choux pastry:

• 250 ml water

• 100 g butter

• 200 g all-purpose flour

• 5 medium eggs

• A pinch of salt

For the pastry cream:

• 500 ml whole milk

• 4 egg yolks

• 150 g sugar

• 40 g cornstarch (or all-purpose flour)

• Zest of one organic lemon (or a vanilla bean)

For decoration:

• Amarena cherries in syrup (or fresh, if in season)

• Powdered sugar

For frying (if you choose the fried version):

• Peanut oil or other neutral frying oil

Method:

1. Make the choux pastry:

• In a saucepan, bring the water, butter, and salt to a boil.

• Once boiling, add the flour all at once and stir vigorously until the mixture pulls away from the sides of the pan.

• Let cool slightly, then add the eggs one at a time, mixing well after each addition until smooth and glossy.

2. Cooking:

• Pipe the dough into rings using a piping bag with a star tip, forming them on small squares of parchment paper.

• Fried version: Drop the parchment and dough into hot oil (170°C / 340°F). The paper will detach after a few seconds—remove it and continue frying until puffed and golden.

• Baked version: Bake in a preheated oven at 200°C (390°F) for 20–25 minutes, then another 10 minutes at 160°C (320°F) with the oven slightly ajar to dry them out.

3. Make the pastry cream:

• In a saucepan, bring the milk and lemon zest (or vanilla) to a boil.

• In a bowl, whisk the yolks, sugar, and cornstarch together.

• Slowly pour in the hot milk, whisking constantly, then return the mixture to the heat.

• Stir until the cream thickens, then remove from heat and let cool.

4. Assemble:

• Use a piping bag to fill the center and top of each zeppola with pastry cream.

• Garnish with a cherry and dust with powdered sugar.

In Conclusion: A Dessert That Tells a Story

Zeppole di San Giuseppe are the perfect example of food as a cultural archive: every bite tells a story of ancient rituals, devotional practices, artisanal creativity, and community spirit. In a world that’s increasingly globalized, this dessert reminds us that culinary memory is a form of cultural resistance and a celebration of identity.